A Fatbike named Ullr
So for those of you following along you already know that I got a bug up my butt to build a fat bike... And if you haven't been following along, you really need to pay more attention, you better do some homework and catch up... That's three Hail Mary's and a Lord's prayer for you. Anyway, this couldn't be "just a fat bike", it needed to be something special! So, I jumped right into the latest fatbike trend a 27.5 x 4 wheeled bike. In theory, it sounded good. My gut said it would be fun, so why not??? Well, fast forward a few months and let me walk you through what I ended up with!
So to start with, a nice steel frame. A question that everyone alway asks me is "What kind of steel"? So we will save you some effort and I'll tell you before you ask. Dedacciai. What, you've not heard of it??? Well shame on you, what kind of Italian are you??? Oh wait, you're not... Anyway, let's just say Dedaccaia is a really nice tube from Italy. More importantly, they offer the tubing butting profile that I was after. To go deeper will most likely bore you to tears but suffice to say, this bike is made with an oversize tubeset that was picked to match up with my size, weight and riding style!
If you've ever purchased a handmade frame before, you'll know that one of the most difficult parts of the process is choosing the color scheme and graphics. Well, this build was not different. My plan started as a gray bike with a gray panel and red components. Yeah, in my head that seemed perfect! Then the cheap side of me came out and I considered using paint I had left over... So the bike (in my head) evolved to blue, orange and white. But then I thought better of it and decided to return to my original scheme of gray on gray... Oh, then I went to the store to buy some paint. Yeah. Well, needless to say I came home with baby blue and white, so yeah, don't ask. Anyway as you can see it's a fairly classic and typically "Ferretti" paint job!
Then of course comes the fun of spec'ing out all of the components!!! So again, to know me is to know I like practical, durable and well designed parts... I don't want to totally bore you with the tiniest of details as well as why I decided to select that component so I'll give you a brief overview here and then a bunch of pictures!
Frame: we talked about it and if you didn't read above, shame on you...
Wheels: Whisky 80W Carbon 27.5 x 80mm rim, Industry Nine hubs, Sapim Spokes/nipples. 45NRTH Vanhelga tires.
Drivetrain: Sram GX Eagel
Cockpit: Whisky Bicycle Components fork, stem, seatpost and handlebars. White Industry headset. Fabric saddle.
Ride: Well, all I can say is man, this is light for a fatty... You can definitely "feel" the lightness when you ride... I used a short rear center and a fairly long front center meaning this fatbike handles like a modern mountain bike. In fact, I had someone comment that this bike rode like a mountainbike, not a fat bike... Enough said... No more words here, you need to experience it! So without further ramblings browse through some pics and enjoy! As always, if you have questions, don't hesitate to reach out with them!
Whisky 80W 27.5 Fat Rim
If you've been following along on our other social media outlets you'll see that I've been building a sweet fat bike... Which means that I've been researching what's new and where I think the market may be going. At this point the biggest thing I see changing is wheel size... So, I present to you my newest addition to my rim stable, the Whisky 80w carbon fatbike rim. Did I mention these are 27.5? Yeah, I'm going to buy in on the 27.5 fat movement.
I thought I'd take a moment to share a quick glimpse under the hood of this new offering! Let's get started, shall we?
Width- Whisky keeps things pretty simple when naming their rims. Browse through their website and you'll find that their naming conventions contain either a "W" or a "D". "D" denote rim depth, "W" denotes rim width. Easy peasy, right??? These rims, named the 80W would seemingly then measure 80mm, right??? Well, almost...
But heck, 83mm is close!!!! Frankly, I would have called it the 83W but that's just me... And to know and understand me is to embrace my weirdness... Ok on to what really matters, the internal width. This is the measurement that directly influences the width that your tire mounts up to.
That's a nice, respectable 77mm. More importantly, math will tell you that each bead wall is 3mm thick, pretty beefy in this world of "I've gotta have the lightest carbon bit on my 30 lb bike..." But trust me I'll rant more about that in another post! Back on task... I'll drop another post in the blog once these wheels are built up and I've mounted some tires pertaining to actual width.
Now, that's not all when it comes to weight... Whisky Parts shipped these rims with their own rim tape, washers and tubeless valves (Oh, did I forget to mention that these rims are natively tubeless compatible???). So good on you Whisky, good on you. I know I've got the correct length valve and the correct width tape! Sometimes it's the little things that give the impression of quality! Anyway, back to my scale...
If you really want to geek out and save a few grams, you may be able to find a nice aluminum tubeless valve stem for this particular application. Speaking of tubeless, the profile of this rim looks to be great! Now, I don't goof around with ghetto tubeless, nor mounting non-tubeless tires. That said, I've got a set of tubeless compatible tires heading here. I'll post up a video of mounting them up so you'll hopefully see the ease a dedicated tubeless set up is.
Ok- that's all I have for you right now! I'll follow up with pictures, weights and thoughts once the complete wheel build is done! If you have any questions, feel free to reach out!
It's time... Time to grow. That said, we are looking for a few good people! Notice I didn't say hot shot racers??? That's right, a few good people who can help to represent our brand, our bikes and beliefs. If you are an avid rider and have what it takes to help build our brand and relationships in the bike community, drop us a line to introduce yourself!
What's in it for you? Well, you get to keep riding your bike in cool places so there's that... Access to amazing deals on handmade bikes and wheels... And heck, I'll probably even buy you beer and pizza occasionally... And who doesn't like that?
That's right, after 7 long years of use and abuse my Chris King BB has finally crossed the rainbow bridge. 7 years, 5 bikes, countless good times. Now, it's death wasn't sudden. Instead it made it's impending death known with lots of creaks, knocks and clicks. It finally passed away peacefully this morning. Being tattered and worn, looking worse for the wear it asked for a closed casket funeral and I respected it's wishes. No eulogies or photo's to commemorate it's life, just memories.
Now, being a planner I had it's replacement in my tool box waiting for this sad day to come. It's always tough to find a replacement for a part of this calibre! I didn't want to go back to the stock sram, replace every month during cx season, lifestyle so I searched in earnest for a suitable replacement. Being a White Industries sort of guy I gave them a call to order up one of their sweet new units... Only one problem... They don't make a 68mm BSA, gxp unit. That sort of popped that sweet little bubble I was living in. Sensing my disappointment, they actually suggested I check out the Wheels Manufacturing BB with Enduro Angular Contact bearings. Honestly, that had never even crossed my mind. I mean I'd heard rumblings on the interwebs that the wheels units were pretty good but like any good consumer I was skeptical at the very least. That said, I remembered my friend and good mechanic Dan, from ChainRing Rhythm giving them a thumbs up several years ago. A quick shout to him confirmed he was still digging them. Then in a strange twist of fate, I checked in with Jamie at Rochester Cycling and fitness and he had just gotten a few in and had good things to say as well! Sold!
Anyway, checking out the Wheels Manufacturing website, they have roughly 1.5 billion different BB's to choose from... Luckily, they have a pretty good filter on their site as well... Three or 4 clicks later I was directed to the unit I knew I had to have... The 68mm gxp, BSA Sram compatible unit with Angular contact bearings (they have a less expensive option using ABEC3 bearings but I believe the Angular contacts are a better choice for a BB). Cool thing with this unit is that the bearings (enduro) are field replaceable at what I consider to be a reasonable cost. All this and the cups are manufactured in the U.S. of A. helping to avoid those pesky trade tariffs on bicycle parts (I'm sure the price may increase as I believe enduro bearings are made in China).
Installation was pretty straight forward though I have to say that the directions on the Wheels website though easy to follow were not 100% accurate for my bike. Their instructions showed using two small plastic shims on each side of the cups. One sandwiched between the bearing shield and wavy washer on the fixed cup side and one between the bearing shield and arm on the adjusting cup side. Following this configuration, my BB bound and refused to spin freely. I grabbed my calipers and verified my BB shell width to be 67.9mm. That said, I removed one of the shims and everything spun free. I'm hanging on to the shims as I suspect that as things wear in a bit the BB could potentially develop a touch of play... That should be easy to rectify with a quick replacement of the shim!
Fit and finish of this unit appear to be nice. Enduro bearings are known for their quality so I expect good things from them. In terms of the cup itself, it appears to be of high quality and well machined. Threads were clean and lacking burrs or debris that may foul up installation. This particular BB utilized the common 16 tooth tool configuration so standard BB tools will work. I used a Park Tool BBT-19 and noticed no mars or marking to the BB after installation pointing to a fairly durable surface coating of the BB.
I'll provide an update to this blog late season to comment on the overall durability of this unit. My initial impressions are that this is a high quality unit that seems to justify it's MSRP of $74.00.
As of late, I've been building some centerlock wheels. I have no real compelling reason to use centerlock vs standard 6 bolt as it seems that when viewed as a system, weights are equivalent (system meaning hub and rotor weight). The one advantage I have found is for travel, and only if you remove your rotors to bag or box your bike. Removing centerlock rotors is a 30 second endeavor vs a few minutes for 6 bolt rotors. Plus the convenience of handling one lock ring opposed to 6 little bolts. But I digress.
As cyclocross season approaches I'm faced with the challenge of having a quiver of 3 sets of disc wheels, 2 six bolt and 1 centerlock, all align with the brake caliper when changing wheel sets. With 6 bolt there are rotor shim spacing solutions currently available on the market. I've been unable to find spacer solutions for centerlock so I had some manufactured! These little guys will fit standard 35 mm centerlock hubs (not the oversize and less common 46mm version). Each spacer is 0.3mm thick. I'm selling them in lots of 6 for $12 plus shipping! Get them before they're gone!
Finally a solution for spacing centerlock disc brake rotors! These are built for standard 35mm centerlock hubs. Spacers come as a pack of 6 and each spacer is 0.3mm thick. For more information please click: http://ferretticycles.com/blog/centerlock-spacers-now-available
Why I'm riding a steel, hardtail, plus bike.
Yes, you're eyes are lying to you. That picture above looks like an old classic steel hardtail, straight out of 1990. Classic lines, real paint, racy geometry, ready for the NORBA circuit... Well, look closer because this bike is almost the polar opposite of that! It's really a plus bike, a fast one at that. Have I piqued your curiosity yet? Good! Grab a coffee (or beer) and settle in. I'll walk you through this whip and why you need one.
Let's get this out of the way first. This bike was built as a display bike for NEMBA fest. I wanted to show folks that steel hardtails are alive and well. Being a custom bike builder, it's not like I have stock bikes laying around to take and display so I needed to build something for the fest. So, what better customer to build a bike for than myself! Yes, that bike is built and spec'd out for me and my riding style.
One of my favorite moments of NEMBA fest occurred on an early morning ride. I needed to get some miles in before the festival opened so I grabbed this bike and shot out on the trails. For those of you not familiar with NEMBA, its situated at the Kingdom Tails in northern Vermont. The trails flow well and roll nicely. I won't go as far as to call this place mountainous but you're certainly either going up or down the majority of the time. Many of the climbs incorporate switchbacks, I'm not sure if it's to keep the incline gentle or to keep the trail system compact. Regardless, as I rolled up to a longer climb I see someone two or three switchbacks above me pushing their bike up the hill. I figured they must have had a mechanical problem as this hill certainly wasn't too steep for a modern bike. As I rode I decided I'd earn some good trail karma and help whoever this poor soul with the mechanical. When I was maybe 100 or so feet away, the pusher turned, looked at me and said “Man, an old steel hardtail. That thing has to weigh a ton, I can't believe you're riding that here!”. I chuckled a little, made some joke about being an old retrogrouch and dismissed his statement. I was curious though, why was this dude walking his bike uphill... I mean it was obviously a modern bike. I looked closer and noticed it was a demo bike from one of the vendors. All carbon, at least 6” of suspension front and back, a new Sram Eagle drivetrain, carbon and bling everywhere. So now I'm curious...
“Hey, you ok? It's a beautiful morning for a ride let's get you fixed and riding”...
He looks a bit taken back and says
“Fixed? I'm not broken, this bike is too heavy to ride uphill”.
Now I'm uncomfortable... This guy just made fun of me for riding a steel hardtail in the hills because it's heavy and he's pushing his uber cool carbon bling bling totally awesome machine. On top of that, he then starts in on some diatribe about how awesome the new panty dropper 8005mm, penta link, zirconium coated, hyper, uber cool rear suspension was. I mean, I've been in the bike industry for a long, long time but he was spewing technobabble that I'd never heard of! Worse, it was evident his verbal barfing of made up tech wasn't going to end anytime soon... Then I realized... Koolaid. He drank the marketing Koolaid. The marketers told him that this bike not only is the best bike to ride but will make him handsome and simultaneously get him laid... And he believed. As he was explaining to me how the flux capacitor modulated the muffler bearing I interrupted telling him I had to meet a friend at the top of the climb in 6 minutes and had to roll. Not wanting to be too rude (but already knowing what the outcome would be) I offered him join up with me to the top and to continue the ride. He looked at me strangely, declined and started pushing his bike up the hill again.
Yeah, had to be the coolaid... Throughout the weekend, I saw lots of folks pushing this same brand of super bike around. All smiling, all speaking the same technobabble, with a crazy hypnotized look, almost never riding. Have we lost our way? I hope not.
Back to that “heavy steel hardtail”... It seems that when people see this bike one of the first things they asked was how much it weighs. I usually shrug and tell them that I have no idea. Well, I got sick of everyone asking and finally weighed it. 23.8 lbs (10.79 Kg for the portion of the world who uses the correct measuring system). So, that qualifies it as pretty light in my book. Especially when considering it has 2.6” tires on it! Anyway, back to the bike (and why you should ride one).
Now, the second most asked question is “What size wheels are those (and are they carbon)”? Well, for those of you who don't personally know me I'm vertically challenged... Since I knew I'd be building a plus sized bike I chose to utilize 27.5” tires. This particular build was optimized for what I'm considering “plus lite”. Optimized??? Yeah, I intended it for tires in the 2.4-2.8” range. This particular spec is a 27.5 x 2.6”. Now you're probably wondering what I mean by optimized. Let me explain. I've done lots of riding on 27.5 x 3” tires and don't get me wrong, they're awesome. Lot's of traction, lot's of cush, the ability to run nice low pressures to “tune” the ride. What I don't like about 3” tires is that when I decrease the pressure to maximize traction and grip the handling gets “wanky”. As in the bike starts to self steer and I get an uneasy feeling of the tire going one way and the wheel another. Add to that an uncontrolled rebound after compression and you've got the perfect recipe for weird! The fix is easy, more pressure. Unfortunately, though you fixed the wanky handling you broke the awesome float and traction. Through some experimentation I've come to realize that the 2.6” width seems to be that sweet spot. I'm personally running 16 psi in the front and 17 psi in the rear and at those pressures I've got totally solid handling (no tire flexy wankyness), great cushion and incredible traction. The rebound of the 2.6” tire seems more controllable than the 3”. Why? This is a guess but I think it's just because there's less travel (compression) in the tire in the first place. What's more is the 2.6” tire at 17 psi seems to balance the 100 mm travel fork seamlessly! Meaning this bike actually feels like a short travel dually! Score! Oh and yes, they are carbon hoops... Carbon rims are all I'll ride and I suggest you try a set...
Let's talk quick about the ride. It's fun. Like big bmx bike fun. How so? Well let's start with how quick it is. First off, no rear suspension to sap the feeling of acceleration! Now don't get me wrong, not having a rear suspension can be a detriment on long ride or super technical sections but remember that big tire... It makes up for 99% of it. Second, and I hate to say this, weight. Being a relatively light bike this bike surges forward. What's more, that low weight is apparent when you sling this bike through corners and have to man (or chick) handle this. Less weight just makes it easier. Which brings me to the handling... I often read reviews that speak of very specific geometries, like 430mm chainstays or 67 degree head tube angles... Let me tell you, as a custom builder, a lot of that is smoke in mirrors. I'm not saying that heat tube angle doesn't affect handling, it does. What I am saying is that there's a ton that goes into how a bike handles. To me, one of the most important issues is weight distribution. Though this topic is way beyond the scope of this blog, let me glaze over it by saying that if you really want to have an incredible handling bike, work with spot on bike fitter (Noel Bonk at Bonkwerks is great) and a knowledgeable builder, tell them what you like, and let them design a rocket... (and don't get caught up in the numbers, that's their job). Once you do that, I believe you'll have a bike that is exactly what you want! You'll find yourself taking lines you normally wouldn't, railing corners like an enduro pro and enjoying your riding experience more than ever (oh and not walking up hills with a 30 lb bike).
I know that this was long winded but I want the take away to be the following: Buck market trends. Unless you live out west or on a big mountain, you most likely don't need a 6+” travel bike. Take a good hard look at the trails you actually ride and make your bike choice based on that. For me and 99% of my riding a short travel hardtail with big(ish) tires fits the bill.
If you have any questions about this blog be sure to comment below!
Oh and if you're interested in buying this bike or one like it: Bicycles
For this year's Nemba fest I decided to build a bike to bring and show off. I prepared a list of what I wanted the bike to be and set off to build it... For those of you wondering here's some inside dirty details of this build.
Frame- Steel. Dedacciai Zero and Zero Uno oversize tubing to be exact. I'm not going to go into the nitty gritty details on diameters and butts but know it's steel, stiff, relatively light and modern! Geometry follows the latest long and low concept with a slack head tube angle, steep seat tube, long front and center, short stays and low bottom bracket. It handles superbly, is stiff but doesn't beat you down.
Parts: Well initially, my goal was to make this an "affordable" build... Then the Quarq power meter and carbon Ferretti wheels ended up on the bike, pushing the price up and the bling factor high! Anyway instead of me describing all the parts, I'll put some images up so you can see for yourself!
Morning all- In a previous post I talked a bit about experimenting with a mountain bike cassette on my gravel bike. I was playing around with a 42T chainring with a Shimano 11-40 cassette on a Sram Force bike. It worked well enough that I decided to push the envelope a bit further.
For those of you who've been following along on facebook and instagram you may know that I've been hinting about a stock bike I'm bringing to market. Though this blog isn't about that, I can say that the bike I'm speaking of has been my test mule for the gearing set up I'm using! So let's get down to it, shall we?
I've decided to go with a wide range mountain cassette and a 1X front set up. In this case a Sram Apex 1 derailleur, driven by Apex 1 hydro levers, a 40T Wolfstooth chainring and a 10-42 mountain cassette. I went with Apex level components for 2 reasons. #1 I have a tendency to cheap out and #2 I've not used the new stuff so I wanted to see how well it works!
First up, gearing range. As I mentioned, 40T chainring, 10-42 cassette. This yields a huge gearing range. Less than 1:1 on the low end (.95:1 to be exact) and 4:1 on the big end (enough that I can roll my biggest gear at 28 mph on the road). Most of my test riding has been on local mountain bike trails and I can say this gearing is pretty good for it! Our local trails lack any long straights that would tax the high end of the gear range. On the low end, the 40-42 combo is getting me up everything I want (on mountain bike trails while riding a gravel bike...). That said, If I were to set this bike up exclusively for trail riding, I'd certain put a 38 or maybe even a 36 tooth chainring on. That would lower the gear range even more! Now, for the rail to trails and dirt roads that I've hit... Again that 40T with a 10-42 has been perfect! Low enough for long extended climbing and high enough to blast when needed! That said, Joe or Jane racer could install a 42, 44 or if they got the engine even a 46 T chainring for their watt producing pleasure. All positive right??? Sort of! One niggle I do have is the large jumps between gears, that's where a 2X system is going to win. If you come from a road background, I'm pretty sure you're going to notice the large gearing changes each shift. If you come from a mountain background... carry on, this feels exactly like what you are used to!
Ok, as promised a quick blurb about the Sram apex 1. It's pretty darn good!!! Shift accuracy is on par with my Sram Force 1. What I do notice is a difference in feel. The force set up is more refined, smoother. Without breaking out the scale I can't give you numbers but the Force kit is certainly lighter, as is you wallet after you buy it.... For now, I'm going to spend the rest of this season riding gravel and CX on Apex.
I know we all lust after the N+1 being the perfect number of bikes but what if I had a solution to help you control the size of your bike quiver while avoiding the dreaded domestic spat that can arise from a new bike purchase... Yeah, a new set of wheels. So instead of throwing down the AMEX card on a new bike for summer trail riding, instead buy a light and fast set of plus size wheels!
What you're looking it here is a set of carbon rims, laced to fat bike spaced hubs. This will allow you to convert your fatbike to a plus sized bike for the summer. This particular wheel uses Whiskey Parts new 50mm carbon rim. It's tubeless ready and even includes tape and a valve! Hub duty is being fulfilled by a set of Hope Fatsno hubs with a Shimano Driver. Spokes and nipples are Sapim.
Being a custom company, we have the flexibility to build you up almost any hub/rim/spoke combination you can dream of so don't be afraid to ask!
Just a quick behind the scenes view of a few of the steps that go into building a custom wheel. Though I spec'd this rim, I still measure the ERD (effective rim diameter) to verify that the manufacture produced what I spec'd. This is a critical measurement, it is one of the determinants of the eventual spoke length!
The next measurement that I make is the spoke hole offset measurement. Basically, it's the measurement from left spoke hole centerline to the right spoke hole centerline. This measurement only happens on pretty wide rims where the left and right side spokes do not share a common centerline.
That's all for today!
David is either found riding his bike or in his workshop working on them!